Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Fushimi Inari Taisha

Hello all!

Myself and some of my colleagues visited Kyoto last weekend.  Kyoto is a cultural treasure for Japan, as it is home to countless ancient temples and shrines that have been preserved.  Unlike other Japanese cities, Kyoto was not targeted during the World Wars, allowing these sacred sites to survive the past centuries.

View of Kyoto from part way up Inari Mountain
As have a strong interest in older world religions and mythologies, it comes as no surprise that I have become enamoured with the preservation of Shintoism into modern day Japan.  One of the major Shinto Shrines we visited in Kyoto is Fushimi Inari, also known as the 1000 Tori Gates.  Located at the base of Inari Mountain, this Shrine has existed since 711 C.E.

Shrine main Entrance
Smaller sub-shine
Inari Okami is one of the major kami in Shintoism.  "Kami" doesn't translate well into English, but in simple terms refers to the gods and spirits of Shinto.  Inari is often viewed as being one, or a collection of three or five different kami.  In different stories, they can be male, female, or andrygenous.


It has been estimated that approximately 1/3 of all Shinto shrines in Japan are dedicated to Inari, making them quite the popular kami!


Most Shinto shrines will feature a tori gate at its entrance.  Passing through these gates signify that you are leaving the human world into a spiritual place.  Inari is strongly associated with the red tori gates, which is why shrines dedicated to them will often have many of them.  This site is famous for having over a thousand tori.

You can walk through the hundreds of tori at Fushimi Inari Taisha
Inari is associated with "kitsune" (foxes).  These foxes are white, and act as messengers to the kami.  In folklore, kitsune are tricksters and shapeshifters, who will often trick or help humans.  Nearly all Inari shrines will feature a pair of these stylized kitsune, generally one male, one female.

Pairs of kitsune statues are prevalent at Inari's Shrines
Inari is an exceedingly popular kami to revere.  They are associated with prosperity and worldly success.  It makes sense, then, for Inari to be the patron kami of industries and buisnesses, many of which will dedicate shrines and tori to them.  All of the tori at Fushimi Inari have been donated by buisnesses, whose names will be written on the back of their respective gate.  Inari is also the patron of foxes, fertility, agriculture, rice, tea, and sake.  The kitsune statues at Inari shrines will generally be holding some kind of representative item in their mouths, such as rice sheaves or jewels. Some stories also associate Inari with blacksmithing and as a protector of warriors.

The tori have the names of the businesses that donated them inscribed on their backs
On the evening of July 19th, there was a lantern festival in Inari's honour.  Many visitors wore fox masks, and yukatas.  There was music, and we joined in a large circle dance with the other visitors.

As the sun set, the glow of a thousand lanterns glowed in the dusk
Offerings are often left out for the kami.  A popular offering is the type of sushi, appropriately named "inari".  These are balls of rice wrapped in pockets made of flat fried bean curd.  This type of bean curd is also appropriately called "kitsune".  The pockets are often shaped into triangles to resemble a foxes' ear.  I had to piece these bits of information together, myself, but I'm sure you can see how this all fits together!  Also, inari is delicious, and you can get it at almost any sushi restaurant in Vancouver, so go try it!

I think this is a keg of sake to be offered to Inari during the festival
These hand-drawn pictures are illuminated by the laterns.
Priests are getting ready to do something important.
This is only one of the many beautiful places we've visited in Kyoto, and Japan in general.  Hopefully I'll be able to fill you in, more!  And seriously, try some inari next time you go out of sushi, and remember some of the things you've now learned!  :)

Saturday, June 27, 2015

Sensoji Temple

One thing I love about Japan so far is the coexistence of Shinto and Buddhist cultures.  The Tokyo area is full of historical and reconstructed shrines and temples.  While most Japanese people would not describe themselves as actively religious, there are numerous yearly ceremonies that are integrated into the culture, and are a part of the Japanese lifestyle.

The Sensoji Temple is a Buddhist centre, and is located in Asakusa.  It was founded in 628 Common Era.  The modern temple buildings were reconstructed in 1950.  It serves as the headquarters of the Sho-Kannon sect, and primarily revers Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Compassion.


Nakamise runs from the outer gate to the second gate, where shops and vendors sell food, yukatas, and various types of trinkets.  The ~$30 yukata was tempting, but I figure that if I’m going to buy and wear one, it should be of less questionable quality.


Despite being a Buddhist temple, the Kaminarimon Gate (Thunder Gate) at its entrance is guarded by Raijin and Fujin, the Shinto gods of thunder and lightning, and wind.   The gate is also famous for its large chochin lantern.



This pegoda is five stories high.  It was originally constructed in 942 CE, like the Kaminarimon Gate, the original has been lost to fires and since rebuilt.  The top floor holds relicts of the Buddha.



This pair of sandals, called "owariji' [big straw sandals] are “kami sized", at 4.5m in height, and 1.5m wide!  They weigh ~500 kilos each.  The originals were donated by a fellow named Toshizou Matsuoka in thanks to the government for providing safety and relief to his district. The originals have since been destroyed in fires, but new ones have been continuously donated to replace them.  It takes ~800 people, and a year and a half total to produce owariji of this size.  I heard that it is good luck to touch them.


The tradition is a little bit different at each shrine and temple, but generally you toss a coin into the bin as an offering, bow twice, and then clap twice.  The amount of claps and bows varies for each shrine.  Since this shrine is Shinto, I’m able to take a picture of the interior.  Buddhist temples generally have statues of Buddha inside, and it is taboo to take a photo of the Buddha, so I cannot show you the interior of those.  There was a small service occurring on the day we visited.
Shrines generally have large incense burners in front of them.  The sides are lined with shops where you can buy incense to burn, good luck charms, and wooden tags to write wishes on.



You can also get fortunes.  I placed 100 yen (~$1.00) into a box, then grabbed and shook a long, large metal cylinder.  A piece of wood with a number came out.  I then had to look through the drawers to find the one with the matching number, open it, and pull out the fortune which was inside. 

I got a good one. 




Cheers!

Thursday, June 25, 2015

Elise in Japan: How it took three ladies and six men to get me from the airport to my cousin.

Oohayoo gozaimasu

Hello everyone!  I’ll be making an effort of updating my travel blog, again, so you can follow my adventures and mishaps.

First of all, here’s shout out to my dad, who drove me to the airport, and showed me a convenient way of stacking my luggage for transport.

This post is extremely wordy.  I didn’t take many photos one the first day, because I was largely focused on getting to the right place at the right time.  Future posts will be more engaging.

The flight itself was fairly uneventful.  You probably don’t care that I watched Primer for the first time.  I debated whether I should watch it for a second, and possibly third time to figure out what happened, but decided to save that for another time.  I also watched the Maze Runner, and was impressed by the multi-cultural casting.  Finally, I went to watch Frozen, but thought, “Elise, you’ve seen Frozen so many times, you should do something different.”  So I watched Frozen en français.

After debarking, the walk to customs is where it sank in that I’m in Japan!  I’m filled with a sudden joy and giddily stroll down the long hallways.  The “Welcome to Japan” signs were really pretty.  Here are a couple:




At customs, I didn’t need to say anything at all.  I just handed the gentleman my passport and customs form, and he gestured for me to put my index fingers into the scanner.  Now two countries have my fingerprints on file.  Thanks, Obama. /s

Upon picking up my luggage, I came across a customs, “no poultry” sign.  I’m sure this is the first of many funny cartoons I’ll see here, but the little happy faces around the chicken poop just killed me.  I attempted to take a picture, but unfortunately it was too blurry to share.  I promise to post many other silly signs in the future.

Finding the correct train was a struggle.  I was to meet my cousin, Keith, who I will be staying with, at Shinagawa station.  I elected not to take the much simpler “Narita Express”, and instead the cheaper “Keisei Narita Sky Access”, (which is not to be confused with the “Keisei Skyliner”) which I may have actually ended up confusing with the “Keisei Skyliner”.   I dodged the first Skyliner desk on the upper floor, after standing in line for about five minutes before realizing my mistake.  After looking around confused, a lady gestured to me that the other trains were down the stairs. 

Down the stairs, I found the Keisei Sky Access booth.  I asked the lady for a Sky Access ticket to Shinagawa, where my cousin Keith was to meet me at the top of the Keisei line exist.  She told me that the last train for Shinagawa left two minutes prior, and that I would need to transfer to a regular rail line at Nippori station.  I board the train, place my luggage on the rack, and take a seat, only to have a gentleman approach me a few minutes latter and inform me that I was in his seat.  Oh no!  There was assigned seating and I had no idea!  England should have prepared me for this, but I was oblivious!  I check the seat on my ticket.  Aha!  D3!  But alas!  There was a gentleman in my seat!  Oh well, I’ll just sit next to him.  So, I accidentally sit on his hat, as he is very surprised to see me sitting next to him on a mostly vacant train.  He asks if I’m new to Japan, and I reply that, yes, it is my first time visiting.

“Do you know any Japanese?”
“Nihongo chotto” [A little Japanese]
“Oooh!  Good.”

He asks where I’m getting off, and I respond Nippori, to transfer to a train to Shinagawa he confirms that it is the next stop.
The train worker comes by to check our tickets.  He speaks with the gentleman next to me, and they inform me that I’m in the wrong seat.  Embarrassed, I scuttle out and sit a few rows back.

“Do you want us to read it for you?”

Across the aisle sat a Caucasian lady and her Japanese partner.  I graciously accept, and show them my tickets.  So, I was right that my seat was D3, but I was in the wrong train car.  Whoops.  We all agree that I can continue sitting there since I’m off at the next stop.

At the stop, I have no idea where to go.  There is a station attendant present, and so in my head I begin to cleverly think of how to ask, “Which way is it to the platform with the train running to Shinagawa station?”

Instead, when he gets to me, I stare blankly, holding out and pointing at my tickets and ask,
“Shinagawa ka” [Shinagawa?]

He smiles at points me through the gates.

I still don’t know which platform to go to, but fortunately the signs have romanji (Japanese words or names written in the roman alphabet).  Two of them include Shinagawa, and I’ve already forgotton which one the lady at the Keisei booth told me to take.  I pick one that who’s name looked vaguely familiar, at head to the platform.  There, I don’t know which side to take, at it is at this point I develop my strategy for navigating Tokyo:

1.      Accept that you will be confused and lost
2.      Get confused and lost
3.      Wait for a nice Japanese man to give you directions

    As this gentleman was offering assistance, in my head I’m attempting to translate the phrase, “Which direction runs to Shinagawa?   

      What I ended up saying is:

“     Shinagawa ka” [Shinagawa?] while staring blankly, holding out and pointing at my ticket.
He directs me to the proper side, and I take the train to Shinagawa station.
“Arigatou gozaimasu” [Thank you very much]
“OOOOOOHHHHH!”  He was super enthusiastic by my limited phrasing.

At this station, I am faced with two flights of stairs with my luggage and two bags.  I realize at this point that while I learned the Japanese words for, “crow”, and “boring” and “to have a bad temper” I do not know the word for “elevator”.  So I hoist up my luggage, one stair at a time.  About half way through, another nice man stops and gestures at my baggage.

“Daijobou” [It’s fine]
“OOOOOOHHHHHH!”  I impressed another gentleman with my short phrase work.

At the top of the stairs, the real situation dawns on me.

Here’s the problem: 
  • I’m supposed to meet Keith at the top of the exit of the Keisei Sky Access Line.  
  • I didn’t take the Keisei Sky Access Line, so I emerge out of the wrong exit.  
  • Shinagawa is a $(%#*^ing large station.
  • I have no wifi, and thus no way to contact Keith

I loiter for a while, weighing options and hoping that maybe this was magically the right platform even though that I know fully it isn’t.  I begin to wander around, hoping to find a sign that points to the Keisei Sky Access.  I don’t.  After walking through, looking confused and lost, my Tokyo travel strategy kicks into effect as yet another man approaches me, offering benevolent assistance in limited English.

I wish I was more eloquent, but I’m not.  I point to my phone which says, “Keisei Narita Sky Access”.  He begins to take me to the Narita Express.  I stop us. Honestly, the conversation that followed is a horrible, horrible slaughter of both English and Japanese on my end, that I’ll spare myself the embarrassment, and you the headache.   I manage to convey that I am meeting someone at the exit of the Keisei Sky Access Line that comes from Narita.  He finds someone who works at the station, who then looks up the line.
 
Through the man, the attendant explains that the Keisei Sky Access Line goes to Nippori.  

What. 
That was the station I transferred at.
Am I actually supposed to meet Keith there?
Did I get this totally wrong?

I try to further explain that I’m supposed to meet him here, at Shinagawa, and that no, I don’t need directions to Nippori.  They ask if I can contact my friend, and I reply that I need wifi to do so.  They are not able to direct me to wifi.  I pull out the paper with Keith’s information and instructions on how to meet him at Shinagawa, and try to point at the section, which does not help anyone.  By this point we’ve attracted another station attendant, so there are four of us trying to figure out this situation.

It’s then I realize that the paper has Keith’s phone number on it.

“Oh.  Is there a telephone I can use?  Denwa ka” [Telephone?]
“Densha ka” [Train?]
“Denwa” [Telephone]

The kind man sees Keith’s phone number on the paper, and offers to call Keith for me.  This guy is awesome!  He starts talking to someone, and asks for Keithu-san, and I hear reference to me, “Alice-san”.  He hands me the phone.  HURRAY!!!  I take the phone and begin to apologize and explain the situation before I realize that there isn’t anyone on the other line.  I look confused and explain as much to the gentleman.  He looks confused and takes the phone back.  He calls again.  Apparently it isn’t Keith who is answering, and the number is wrong.  (I checked with Keith latter, who insists that the number I had written down was correct, so who knows what happened?)  We try to call my cousin-in-law, Hitomi, with no answer.  Well shit.  At this point the kind gentleman who has tried so, so hard to help me find me way, to whom I am so appreciative towards, needed to leave.  He told the station attendants that we should page Keith on the PA to see if he is in the station.  The second of the attendants, who I don't think spoke any English, assists me with my bags.

“Arigatou goziamasu” at this point he wasn’t surprised, probably due to my failed broken attempts at communicating with the others, previously. 

The first attendant is up ahead, so I think about how to small talk with the one helping me with my bags, best thinking of how I can say, “I know a little bit of Japanese.  I’m trying to study more.”

“…” […]

Upon arriving at the security desk, the attendant explains the situation a lady, who asks me my name, Keith’s name, and what country Keith is from.  She disappears, and I hear a booming, yet muffled voice on the system.  All I can make out is “Keithu-san” and “Alice-san”.

The following minute was painful, desperate hope that not only is Keith still here, but also that I’m not at the wrong station entirely.


I jumped with joy when my very confused cousin entered the security room.